Sunday, 7 June 2009

Election day carnival



I started blogging a year and one month ago, because I was getting so many queries about how things were going in Beirut after the little 7 May dustup between the opposition and the loyalists, that I figured it would save a bit of time to collect everything in one place and let anyone who wished read about it.

Things are coming to a bit of a conclusion in that regard. The elections are being held today, and I'm watching from the balcony in much the same way I did when the dustup was occurring. (Obviously there was no fighting on my street, because then it would have been suicidal to watch from the balcony). What a difference a year made.

Things have been busy since early this morning with people passing in the street. Slogans being broadcast loudly from passing cars (and today the traffic rules are completely suspended; cars enter and exit as their drivers see fit; regardless of one-way signs; facing good natured cooperation from whomever happens to encounter them at corners and tight spots).

There is a carnival spirit in the air. Right downstairs there are big parasols and chairs set up for people to hang out at. For about three weeks the resistance election office of Beirut has had its doors open for business, and more people than usual are arrayed on their chairs out front. A lot of the early morning noise was coming from there.

There are streams of people passing in the street heading to the YWCA where one of the polling places is set up. Before they get there, they must pass by scores of young volunteers, their party affiliation identifiable by the color of their t-shirts and caps. There are the light blues of the Future Party; the whites of the Phalange; the yellows of Hizbullah; and at the resistance headquarters, the greens and blacks of Amal. All of them are haning out together and having a grand old time of it.

Unlike the regular idealistic youths of the other partys, who look like college students and keep their places as close the polls as they can legally remain. The Amal fellows are BIG (but also young) and wearing combat boots and move around some. This is basically an Amal neighborhood, so they are here to keep the peace. But there is no tension at all. Everyone is greeting everyone else, regardless of political affilation, and all getting along fine.

People are flying Lebanese, Hizbullah, and Amal flags from their balconies. Our doorman is handing out croissants to anyone who wants them. And across the street the local mana'iish bakery is doing a land office business. One of the bakers said to me, "we should have an election every week"!

The weather is lovely. May seems to have extended into June. People are out in their summer clothes, heading to the polls with their cute little kids in tow.

So far, no sign at all of the tensions everyone was fearing. We'll see what happens after the votes are counted. It may be a wild night of celebrating.

Update 13:00

Things have calmed down a bit. This might have been expected. A colleague at the University was telling me that she and others like her would vote early. And those whose votes have been purchased or who wish to sell their votes would go to the polls just before closing. She said, "We stupid ones go out and do our duty early; the smart ones vote later"! About stupid and smart Lebanese voters, see Davidovitch's comment at Remarks .

Update 17:00

It has gotten really quiet. There are a few occasional people wandering over to the polling place, but no crowds out front at all. By the way, even with the crowds, it seemed that turnaround was fast, judging by the people I would see going then returning. The only volunteers left on the street are the Amal young men. But they have been living in the street for weeks. They are the only thing now disturbing the usual Sunday peace. The tellie is reporting quiet, orderly polling all round the country.

The opposition anthems to be heard blaring out of the passing autos were party workers ferrying people to and from the polling place.

If you click on the picture, you'll see and enlargement of the early morning crowds at the end of the street in front of the YWCA.

Update 18:50

Ten minutes to closing time and it is so quiet, all I can hear is the neighbors' birds singing. Even for a Sunday, that is quiet. The shabab are still hanging out downstairs but they are quiet too.

Reports round the country are that there have been very few incidents. Tripoli seemed to suffer a bit of a fight. Someone's car windows got broken out by a rock.

Some are saying that if there is to be any unrest, it will be tomorrow after all the results are in and announced. I somewho doubt that much will happen. But we'll see.

That's all for me for today, unless something untoward happens. But I doubt that it will.

5 comments:

Ms. Tee said...

That's Rustum Basha street, right? I love this neighborhood.
Thanks for the update. It is a comfort to know that things are going well.

semi-expert said...

It surely is. After posting the picture, and in fact, when mentioning the YWCA down the street, I reflected that now anyone reading who knows Beirut will be able to find me! I love the neighborhood too and the people in it. They say it has its own particular accent, which I am beginning to detect; and they say it is one of the oldest authentic Beiruti neighborhoods. There is an entire large book devoted to it.

Ms. Tee said...

Yeah, the book's not bad at all. I don't know if you know about this, but on the other side of Graham, in the Druze section of Ein al-Mrayseh, there is a local museum of sorts. A fisherman decompressed badly during one of his dives around 1970, injured his legs, and took to collecting all sorts things to occupy himself. They'd be happy to show you around if you haven't been already.

semi-expert said...

I didn't know that. I've got to go!

Anonymous said...

Dear Dr. Willmsen;
Sorry to be so off topic, but is your textbook SabaaH il-xiir ya maSr” (“Good Morning Egypt”)availible anywhere in the US? I am a begining student of Arabic and I am particularly interested in the Egyptian dialect
Pardon the digression
Jeff Helmers (jhelmers@hotmail.com)

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